Best Resin Craft Kits for Home Decor: Transform YourSpace in 2026

Yes, resin craft kits are perfect for creating stunning home decor pieces—even if you’ve never worked with resin before. The best kits for home decor include everything you need: resin, molds for coasters or trays, pigments, and protective gear. Expect to spend $35-$75 for a quality kit that can make 4-6 projects.

I still remember the nervous excitement I felt opening my first resin home decor kit three years ago. My living room was screaming for a personal touch, but I wasn’t ready to spend $200 on designer coasters. Fast forward to today, and my home is filled with pieces I’ve created myself—each one sparking conversations with guests who can’t believe I made
them.

The beauty of resin home decor? It looks expensive, feels custom, and costs a fraction of store-bought alternatives. Whether you’re decorating your first apartment or refreshing a room that’s lost its spark, resin crafts offer that perfect blend of creativity and functionality.

Why Resin Home Decor Kits Are Worth Your Time

Let me be honest—when my sister first suggested trying resin crafts, I rolled my eyes. Another crafting trend that would end up half-finished in my closet, right? Wrong. Here’s what actually makes resin home decor different:

It’s practical art. Unlike that watercolor painting collecting dust, resin coasters get used every single day. My geometric serving tray has become the centerpiece of every dinner party, and guests always ask where I bought it. The look on their faces when I say “I made it” never gets old.

The learning curve is gentler than you think. I’m not naturally crafty—I once hot-glued my fingers together during a Pinterest project. But with a good kit, resin work is surprisingly forgiving. Most mistakes can be sanded away or covered with another layer.

Your pieces actually last. Three years later, my first set of coasters still looks brand new. No fading, no chipping, no wear. That’s because properly cured resin is incredibly durable—more so than ceramic or wood alternatives.

Top Resin Home Decor Kits to Try in 2026

After testing dozens of kits (and making plenty of mistakes along the way), here are the ones I actually recommend to friends:

Coaster Kits: Your Best Starting Point

Why start with coasters? They’re small, forgiving, and incredibly satisfying to complete. Plus, everyone needs coasters, which makes them perfect for gifts.

The kit I wish I’d started with includes four silicone coaster molds, enough resin for 6-8 coasters, three complementary pigment colors, and cork backing sheets. Look for kits in the $40-$50 range—anything cheaper usually skimps on resin quality, which you’ll regret during your second project when everything stays sticky.

My favorite part about coaster kits? You can make an entire matching set in one afternoon. I created a set of oceanthemed coasters for my mom’s birthday last year, and she literally teared up. (Though that might have been because I finally made her something instead of grabbing a last-minute gift card.)

Serving Tray Kits: Level Up Your Hosting Game

Once you’ve mastered coasters, serving tray kits are the natural next step. These kits typically include a wooden or silicone tray mold, more resin (you’ll need it for the larger surface), metallic pigments for that luxury look, and handles.

I created my first serving tray for a friend’s housewarming, mixing white and gold to match her marble countertops. She uses it daily for her morning coffee ritual, and I can’t help but feel a little proud every time I see it on her Instagram stories.

Pro tip from someone who learned the hard way: Spring for kits with silicone molds over wood base kits for your first attempt. Silicone releases easier and doesn’t require as much edge finishing.

Wall Art/Canvas Kits: Make Your Mark

Wall art kits opened up a whole new world for me. These kits include stretched canvases or wood panels, resin specifically formulated for vertical surfaces, and often come with metallic foils or alcohol inks for extra depth.

My first canvas piece now hangs in my entryway—a swirling blue and gold abstract that took me about four hours from start to finish (including cure time between layers). Every single person who walks through my door comments on it. When they hear it cost $60 in materials versus the $300+ similar pieces sell for at local galleries, their jaws drop.

Clock-Making Kits: Functional Art That Tells Time

I’ll admit, clock kits seemed gimmicky until I made one for my home office. These kits include clock mechanisms, hands, a backing board or mold, and usually some extra embellishments like dried flowers or holographic flakes.

The best part? You can customize them to match any room’s aesthetic. I made a minimalist white and rose gold clock for my workspace that looks like it came from West Elm. Total cost: $45. Similar store-bought versions: $150+.

Trinket Dish Kits: Small but Mighty

Don’t underestimate trinket dish kits. These smaller kits are perfect for testing new techniques without committing tons of materials. I use mine for jewelry on my nightstand, but they also work as ring dishes, key holders, or desk organizers.

The kit I recommend includes three different sized molds (small, medium, and large), enough resin for about six dishes, and a variety of effect options like marble veining or gold leaf.

Planning Your Home Decor Resin Project (The Smart Way)

Here’s where I made my biggest rookie mistake: diving in without a plan. My first project? A “wing it” approach that resulted in murky brown coasters (turns out mixing too many colors = mud) that now live in a box somewhere.

Matching Projects to Room Aesthetics

Before buying any kit, I now photograph the room where the piece will live. Sounds obvious, right? But this simple step saves you from creating beautiful pieces that clash with your space.

For my minimalist bedroom, I stick to soft neutrals and single metallic accents. My bohemian living room gets the vibrant, multi-colored, nature-inspired pieces. This approach means every piece I create actually gets displayed instead of hidden away.

Color Scheme Selection: Less is More

The golden rule I live by now: choose 2-3 colors maximum for any project. My most successful pieces use two complementary colors plus a metallic accent.

My go-to combinations:

• Navy blue + white + gold foil (sophisticated, universally loved)
• Sage green + ivory + copper (earthy, calming)
• Deep purple + black + silver (dramatic, modern)
• Turquoise + white + pearl pigment (coastal, fresh)

Size Considerations for Different Spaces

Through trial and error, I’ve learned that scale matters more than I initially thought:

• Coffee tables: Standard coasters (4-4.5 inches) or small trays (8×10 inches)
• Console tables: Medium trays (12×16 inches) or decorative bowls
• Dining tables: Large serving boards (16×20+ inches) or centerpiece pieces
• Wall space: Start with 12×12 inch canvases; they’re easier to frame if needed

I once made a massive 24×36 inch canvas pour for my tiny apartment bathroom. It overwhelmed the entire space. Now it lives at my parents’ house where it actually fits the room.

Popular Home Decor Projects You Can Actually Make

Let me walk you through the projects I’ve completed, what worked, what didn’t, and what I wish someone had told me before starting.

Functional Pieces That Get Daily Use

Coasters and Trivets

My experience: I’ve now made over 50 coasters (gifts, personal use, and a few sales). They’re the most forgiving project for beginners.

What works: Marbled effects, geode styles, and solid colors with metallic veining. Simple designs actually look more sophisticated than busy patterns.

Time commitment: Active work: 30-45 minutes. Total with curing: 24-48 hours

Serving Trays and Boards

My experience: My second-favorite project type. They’re impressive without being overly complicated.

What works: Rectangular shapes are easier than round for beginners. Wooden bases with resin tops look expensive. Adding handles makes them feel premium.

What doesn’t work: Trying to serve hot dishes directly on them (they’re not trivets!), or making them too heavy—I once created a gorgeous tray that was so heavy it was impractical to use.

Time commitment: Active work: 1-2 hours. Total with curing: 48-72 hours.

Jewelry Holders

My experience: These have become my most-gifted item. Every woman in my life has received at least one.

What works: Tree-shaped displays, simple dishes with compartments, or tiered designs. Metallic gold or rose gold finishes always impress.

What doesn’t work: Making them too shallow—jewelry pieces fall out. Or too smooth—earrings slide around.

Real talk: I made a ring dish that was too small for actual rings. Now it holds paperclips on my desk. Measure your jewelry first!

Decorative Pieces That Steal the Show

Wall Art Panels

My experience: This is where resin really shines. The depth you can achieve is impossible with regular paint.

What works: Ocean scenes (my most successful), abstract swirls, geode designs, and anything with metallic accents.

What doesn’t work: Attempting realistic images as a beginner. Stick to abstracts until you master control.

Pro tip: Always do a test pour on a small canvas first. I learned this after ruining a beautiful 16×20 inch canvas by using resin that was too thick.

Geode-Style Art

My experience: These look incredibly complex but are actually quite beginner-friendly. My geode serving board gets more compliments than anything else I’ve made.

What works: Purple and blue combinations (think amethyst), or neutral browns and creams. Crushed glass adds authentic sparkle.

What doesn’t work: Using actual crystals that are too heavy—they sink. Mixing too many colors loses the geode effect.

Reality check: My first geode piece looked more like a puddle than a crystal formation. My fifth attempt? Sold to a friend for $85.

Ocean/Beach Scenes

My experience: These are my signature pieces now. I’ve perfected a technique using white, turquoise, and gold that looks like waves lapping on sand.

What works: Layering colors, using a heat gun to create cells that look like sea foam, adding real sand or crushed shells.

What doesn’t work: Too much white makes it look cloudy rather than foamy. Using food coloring instead of resin pigments (learned that the hard way—it faded within weeks).

Techniques for Home Decor Projects (From Someone Who’s Made Every
Mistake)

Large Pour Techniques: What They Don’t Tell You in the Instructions

Working with larger surfaces taught me patience I didn’t know I needed. Here’s what I wish I’d known:

Temperature is everything. My first large serving tray attempt? Done on a 62°F day in my garage. It took a week to fully cure and stayed slightly tacky on the edges. Now I only work with resin when my workspace is 72-75°F.

Mix more than you think you need. Running out of resin halfway through a pour is devastating. I’ve been there—twice. Now I calculate what I need and add 25% extra. Leftover resin can become small coasters or test pieces.

Work in sections if needed. For my largest tray (18×24 inches), I did a base coat, let it cure for 12 hours, then added the decorative layer. This two-step approach prevents overheating and gives you more control.

This is where resin becomes magical. The unpredictability of cells (those beautiful circular patterns) used to frustrate me until I learned to guide them rather than control them.

Heat is your friend. A heat gun (I use a basic $25 model) brings colors to the surface and creates those Instagramworthy cells. The trick is keeping it moving—holding it in one spot creates divots I’ve had to sand out more times than I care to admit.

Silicone oil or alcohol drops create intentional cells. I was skeptical about adding oil to my beautiful resin, but tiny drops (we’re talking pin-head size) create consistent, controlled cells. Start with less—you can always add more on your next layer.

Swirling with toothpicks or skewers gives you direct control but requires a light touch. I’ve oversized patterns by being too aggressive. Think gentle encouragement, not aggressive stirring.

Incorporating Natural Elements

Adding wood slices, stones, shells, or dried flowers elevates your pieces from “craft project” to “artisan goods.”

Wood combinations are my favorite. I’ve paired resin with reclaimed wood from old pallets (sanded smooth first!), creating serving boards that sell themselves. The contrast between organic wood grain and glossy resin is stunning.

Shells and sand for beach themes need to be completely dry. I once embedded damp shells in a trinket dish—they created moisture spots that looked like cloudy bubbles. Now everything gets dried in a low oven for 30 minutes first.

Dried flowers require sealing before embedding. Unsealed flowers can leach color or float to the surface. I use a spray sealant and let them dry overnight before adding them to projects.

Metallic and Luxury Finishes

This is where good kits really show their value. Cheap metallic powders look exactly that—cheap. Quality mica powders or gold leaf create pieces that look professionally made.

Gold leaf technique: Float small flakes on your resin surface before it fully cures, then cover with a clear top coat. My gold-veined white tray looks like marble and cost $50 in materials. Similar trays at boutiques? $200+.

Metallic powders mixed into resin create an overall shimmer. I use these sparingly—a little goes a long way. Too much and you lose transparency, which defeats the purpose of resin’s glossy depth.

Alcohol inks create those viral watercolor effects but require practice. My first attempts looked muddy. Now I use them for accent veining or small details rather than primary colors.

Making Your Pieces Look Professional (Not “DIY” Obvious)

There’s a difference between “I made this!” proud and “wait, you made this?” shocked. Here’s how to cross that line:

Finishing Edges and Backs

This is the detail that separates amateur from pro. Those rough edges and exposed undersides? They scream homemade.

Sanding progression is non-negotiable. I start with 220-grit sandpaper for rough edges, progress to 400-grit for smoothing, and finish with 800-grit for that pre-polish smoothness. Yes, it takes time. Yes, it’s worth it.

Polishing compound takes pieces from matte to glossy. I use automotive polishing compound (weird, I know, but it works) with a microfiber cloth. The transformation is dramatic.

Cork or felt backing on coasters and trays is essential. I learned this after my first coasters scratched my coffee table. Now I add cork backing to everything that sits on furniture. It takes 5 extra minutes and makes pieces look store-bought.

Protective Coatings: The Final Shield

Even after resin fully cures, I add a protective top coat. This isn’t always necessary, but it provides an extra layer of protection and amplifies shine.

For pieces that will see heavy use (coasters, trays), I use a spray-on sealer designed for resin. Two light coats work better than one heavy coat—another lesson learned the hard way when I created drip marks I had to sand off

Adding Hanging Hardware (For Wall Pieces)

Wall art needs proper mounting, and this is where I’ve made some of my most embarrassing mistakes. My first canvas didn’t have sawtooth hangers, so I tried using picture wire. It lasted three days before crashing to the floor at 2 AM.

Now I use flush-mount sawtooth hangers attached with industrial-strength glue before the final resin coat cures. They’re invisible from the front and secure enough that I trust them with my biggest pieces.

Creating Matching Sets: Consistency is Key

Making sets that actually match requires more planning than I initially realized. Color consistency is the biggest challenge.

My solution: Mix all colors for the entire set at once. Even using the same measurements, colors can vary slightly between batches. For a set of four coasters, I mix enough of each color to complete all four in one session.

Document your recipes. I keep a notebook with exact measurements, pigment brands, and ratios for successful projects. This lets me recreate pieces or make matching sets months later.

Cost Analysis: DIY vs Store-Bought (The Real Numbers)

Let’s talk money—because that’s what we’re all thinking about, right?

Material Costs Breakdown (My Actual Spending)

Starter investment:

• Quality kit: $50-75
• Additional pigments: $20
• Extra molds: $25
• Safety gear (if not in kit): $15
• Tools (heat gun, sandpaper, etc.): $30 Total first-time cost: $140-165

Per-project costs after initial investment:

• Set of 4 coasters: $8-12 in materials
• Serving tray: $15-20 in materials
• Wall art piece: $20-30 in materials
• Trinket dish: $5-8 in materials

Time Investment: Be Realistic

Active working time:

• Coasters: 30-45 minutes
• Serving tray: 1-2 hours
• Wall art: 2-3 hours
• Large project: 3-5 hours

Total time including curing:

• Add 24-72 hours depending on resin type and project size

Value Comparison: DIY vs Store-Bought

Here’s where it gets interesting. Let me compare actual pieces I’ve made versus similar store-bought items:

Marble effect coaster set (4 pieces):

• My cost: $10 in materials
• Similar at West Elm: $48
• Savings: $38

Geode serving tray:

• My cost: $18 in materials
• Similar on Etsy: $120-180
• Savings: $102-162

Ocean wall art (16×20″):

• My cost: $25 in materials
• Similar at local gallery: $300+
• Savings: $275+

Real talk: The first few projects don’t save money when you factor in the starter kit cost. But by project #5-6, you’re solidly in savings territory. By project #15 (which came faster than I expected), I’d saved over $500 compared to buying similar pieces.

The Customization Advantage

Here’s what you can’t put a price on: perfectly matching your decor. Store-bought pieces force you to work around their colors and style. DIY pieces adapt to your space.

When I moved into a new apartment with sage green walls, I couldn’t find affordable decor that matched. Within a weekend, I’d created a complete set: coasters, a tray, and wall art in coordinating sage, ivory, and gold. Cost: $65 in materials. Equivalent custom items from artists: easily $400+.

Common Questions ( That I had Too)

Can I make this work in my apartment?

Yes! I live in a 650-square-foot apartment. I work on my kitchen table with a plastic tablecloth for protection. The key is ventilation—I crack two windows and use a small fan. Weather permitting, I work on my balcony for larger projects.

What if I mess up?

You will mess up. I still do sometimes. But here’s the secret: most mistakes can be fixed. Uneven surfaces can be sanded smooth. Bubbles can be popped with a heat gun. Wrong colors can be covered with another layer. That slightly wonky coaster? It’s now my personal favorite because it reminds me I’m still learning.

Is this safe with pets/kids?

During working time, keep curious pets and kids away—uncured resin is toxic and sticky. Once fully cured (72 hours minimum), resin is inert and safe. All my pieces are food-safe for dry goods and drinks once cured. I wouldn’t put hot food directly on them, but cold drinks, snacks, and displays are perfectly safe.

How do I store unused resin?

This was my biggest beginner question. Unopened resin lasts 1-2 years in a cool, dark place. Once opened, use it within 3-6 months for best results. I store mine in my closet (consistently cool) and date each bottle when opened.

Starting Your Resin Home Decor Journey: My Honest Advice

If I could go back and talk to myself before my first project, here’s what I’d say:

Start with coasters. I know that gorgeous river table is calling to you, but trust me—master small projects first. Coasters teach you 90% of what you need to know without the stress of large-scale investment.

Buy a quality starter kit. I cheaped out on my first kit and spent more fixing the problems than I would’ve spent on a good kit initially. Look for kits with clear resin, known brands, and actual reviews.

Join online communities. The resin crafting groups on Facebook and Reddit taught me more than any YouTube tutorial. Real people sharing real mistakes and solutions made me feel less alone when things went wrong.

Give yourself grace. Your first piece won’t be perfect. Neither will your fifth. I’m on my 60-something project, and I still learn something new each time. That’s part of the joy.

Don’t wait for the “perfect” time. I delayed starting for six months because I was waiting for ideal conditions. News flash: there’s never a perfect time. Order that kit, clear your table, and dive in.

The piece I’m most proud of? Not my most technically perfect tray or my shiniest coasters. It’s the slightly asymmetrical wall art in my bathroom—the one I made during a stressful week when I needed a creative outlet. Every time I see it, I remember that creating something beautiful can happen even on imperfect days.

Your home is waiting for pieces that tell your story. Resin craft kits are just the beginning.

Frequently Asked Questions About Resin Home Decor

What home decor items can I make with resin?

The list is honestly endless, but here are the pieces I’ve personally made and loved: coasters (my most-made item), serving trays and boards, wall art and canvas pieces, trinket dishes and jewelry holders, clock faces, bookends, decorative bowls and vases, cabinet hardware and drawer pulls, candle holders, picture frames, and even custom furniture pieces like table tops.

The beauty is that resin works on almost any surface—wood, canvas, molds, even found objects. Start with smaller functional pieces like coasters or dishes, then work your way up to statement pieces like wall art or serving trays.

How much resin do I need for a serving tray?

This depends on the tray size and how thick you want the resin layer. Here’s what I’ve learned through making dozens of trays:

• Small tray (8×10 inches): 8-12 ounces of mixed resin for a 1/4-inch layer
• Medium tray (12×16 inches): 16-24 ounces of mixed resin
• Large tray (16×20 inches): 32-40 ounces of mixed resin

My rule of thumb: calculate the square inches of your tray, then estimate 1 ounce of resin per 10 square inches for a thin coat, or 1 ounce per 5-6 square inches for a thicker pour. Always mix 20-25% extra—running out mid-pour is heartbreaking, and I’ve learned this lesson twice.

Pro tip: Most resin kits tell you coverage on the bottle. Read it before starting!

Can resin home decor be used outdoors?

Yes and no—and I learned this the expensive way. Standard epoxy resin will yellow over time with UV exposure, even UV-resistant formulas. I made beautiful blue coasters for my balcony table, and within six months they had a yellow tinge that ruined the color.

For outdoor use, you need:

• UV-resistant resin specifically labeled for outdoor use
• A UV-protective topcoat (I use marine-grade sealers)
• Understanding that even with protection, some yellowing may occur over years
• Covered outdoor spaces work better than direct sun exposure

My outdoor resin pieces now live under my covered patio where they get indirect light only. They’ve held up beautifully for two years. Anything in direct sun? I use different materials or expect to replace them every year or two.

How do I make resin coasters that don’t stick to glasses?

This was my first major complaint from my mom after I gifted her coasters! Glasses were lifting the coasters right off the table. Here’s what actually works:

The permanent solution: Add cork or felt backing to the bottom of every coaster. Cork is my preference—it’s grippier and provides just enough texture that condensation doesn’t create suction. I buy adhesive-backed cork sheets, cut them to size with scissors, and press them on after the coaster is fully cured and sanded.

The quick fix: Even a light sanding (400-grit) on the bottom surface creates enough texture to prevent sticking. But backing material looks more professional and protects furniture.

During the cure: Make sure your coasters are completely level when curing. Any slight dome shape on the bottom creates a suction effect. I use a level surface and check with an actual level tool now.

What’s the most popular resin home decor project?

Based on what I see people making, buying, and requesting: coasters win by a landslide. They’re the gateway drug of resin crafting—small enough to not be intimidating, useful enough to justify the time, and giftable enough to make in bulk.

Second place goes to serving trays, especially the rectangular ones that look like marble or have gold accents. These sell incredibly well at craft fairs and on Etsy.

Third place is wall art, particularly ocean and geode designs. These take more skill but have the highest perceived value.

In my own collection, I’ve made more coasters than everything else combined (remember those 50+ sets I mentioned?). They’re just so satisfying to make, and everyone needs them.

Can I make money selling resin home decor?

Short answer: Yes, absolutely. But let me be realistic with you.

My experience: I’ve sold about 30 pieces over the past two years—mostly coasters sets, serving trays, and a few wall art pieces. I charge $35-50 for a set of four coasters, $80-150 for trays, and $100-300 for wall art depending on size.

The math:

• Coaster set costs me $8-12 to make, sells for $35-50 = $23-38 profit
• Serving tray costs me $15-20 to make, sells for $80-120 = $60-100 profit
• Wall art costs me $20-30 to make, sells for $150-250 = $120-220 profit

But here’s what people don’t tell you:

• Time investment is significant (you’re not earning minimum wage at first)
• Building a customer base takes months
• Local craft fairs have booth fees ($50-200)
• Online platforms take commission (Etsy takes 6.5% + fees)
• You need excellent photography to sell online
• Shipping large or fragile pieces is expensive and stressful

My advice: Start by making pieces for yourself and gifts. If people start asking to buy them (which will happen), then consider selling. I started selling because friends and coworkers kept requesting pieces, not because I planned to start a business.

The market exists, but treat it as a hobby that occasionally makes money rather than a get-rich-quick scheme. My sales cover my supply costs and fund more projects, which feels like a win.

How do I seal the bottom of resin coasters?

I’ve tried multiple methods, and here’s what actually works:

Best method (my go-to): Self-adhesive cork backing sheets. Cut circles or squares slightly smaller than your coaster (about 1/8 inch smaller all around so it doesn’t show from the top edge). Press firmly and smooth out any bubbles.

Why cork works: It’s water-resistant, protects furniture, prevents sticking, looks professional, and adds a tiny bit of thickness that makes coasters feel substantial.

Alternative method: Adhesive felt circles or sheets. These are softer and quieter when setting down glasses, but they can absorb moisture over time. I use these for coasters that will live in drier environments.

Budget method: Sand the bottom with 220-grit sandpaper to create texture, then apply a layer of clear resin as a bottom coat. This seals it but doesn’t add the protection of cork or felt.

What doesn’t work: Leaving the bottom bare—it scratches furniture and creates that annoying suction effect. I learned this after my first coaster scratched my coffee table. Lesson learned!

Timing tip: Add backing after the coaster is fully cured (wait 72 hours) and after you’ve sanded the edges smooth. Clean off any sanding dust first with a damp cloth.

What colors are trending for resin home decor in 2026?

I’m obsessed with following resin trends (probably spend too much time on Instagram and Pinterest), and here’s what’s hot right now:

1. Earthy Neutrals with Metallic Accents Sage greens, warm creams, terracotta, and soft grays paired with gold or copper. This is my current favorite—it looks expensive and matches almost any decor style. I made a sage and gold tray last month that got more compliments than anything I’ve made in a year.

2. Moody Jewel Tones Deep emerald green, rich burgundy, navy blue, and amethyst purple. These create dramatic pieces that make statements. My deep purple and gold wall art is very on-trend right now.

3. Coastal Blues and Whites Ocean-inspired pieces never go out of style, but the trend now leans toward realistic wave effects with layers rather than the simpler swirls of a few years ago. Turquoise, navy, and white with gold or pearl accents.

4. Black and Gold Luxury High-contrast, dramatic, sophisticated. This combination always sells well for me—people see it as gallery-worthy.

5. Soft Pastels with Pearl Effects Blush pink, baby blue, mint green, and lavender with iridescent or pearl pigments. These have that ethereal, cottagecore vibe that’s popular right now.

What’s fading out: Bright primary colors and overly busy multicolor designs. The trend is moving toward sophisticated, intentional color palettes rather than “throw all the colors in.”

My personal prediction: Warm neutrals (terracotta, rust, cream) with gold accents will dominate 2026. I’m already stocking up on these pigments.